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Overnight at Toleak Point

by Amanda Phillips
Overnight at Toleak Point
“There is, one knows not what sweet mystery about this sea, whose gently awful stirrings seem to speak of some hidden soul beneath...”
Herman Melville
Moby Dick

A seasoned mountaineer finishing their latest stint in the Himalayas and I don’t have much in common, until we start talking about the places we love. There is something strange about loving a place that you can never know or understand, that feels bigger than you can fathom, a place where loved ones can disappear, and yet it calls you to come back. The fact that they are speaking of high peaks and I am talking about the ocean makes little difference; the sentiment feels the same.

I have a complicated relationship with the ocean. It is my livelihood, my childhood, it holds some of my best memories, some of my worst. It has taken people from me, but it also forged me into the person I am now on its swells. I worry about what the ocean will be to me when my career doesn’t revolve around what lies beneath the waves. I am returning to school this fall to pursue data science and while there is the potential to use it in the marine field, it is a step away from spending my days on the water, breathing the salt. Working in the marine science field has defined me for a decade, and I find myself unsure amidst this change. 

On our first backpacking trip on the coast and to Toleak Point, my two worlds merged. The ocean I loved, hated, was entirely consumed by, and this burgeoning backpacking hobby in which I finally felt like myself. Returning to Toleak Point seemed like a perfect trip for this Memorial Day, espescially since I was joined by Michael, Meg and Kyle. These three allow me to open the spigot and talk about marine science non-stop for days. 

 

There was a moment on the second day, after I found a particularly awesome sea discovery (see pictures below for more!), that I turned to Meg and said, “I am so relieved to realize that this won’t disappear”. I realized I can stop working as a marine biologist, and it will not undo the experiences and knowledge gained in the past 10 years. It will always be there, ready for an eager ear. Every time I return to the coast to backpack, I will always be the girl who loves the sea.  

 

Toleak Point hike information

Day One-Third Beach to Toleak Point

First backpacking trip of 2018 (that isn’t in snow!). Technically I snow-camped at Mt. Rainier in January, but it didn’t feel like a proper backpacking trip, perhaps because we only camped a 0.5 mile walk from the parking lot. There has been a fair bit of snow this year, so our normal list of backpacking trips to do in May were less appealing. As it was a sunny Memorial Day weekend, we knew it would be busy at most of our top choices. The coast would be crowded, but I have always found that it is easy to spread out on the beach, and there is less panic about finding a spot to pitch a tent than in other mountainous or lake regions. When we found a route that would match well with the tides, the coast became the winner for our first 2018 backpacking trip. 

We met early on Sunday morning and packed up the car, ran up to Edmonds and jumped on a ferry. Before too long, we made it to Port Angeles to pick up our permits at the Wilderness Information Center. Overnight permits for this region are not limited, so after warning us about the crowds and ensuring we had a bear can, the ranger sent us on our merry way. 

After a few more hours of driving along the shore of Crescent Lake, we arrived at the trailhead to find the parking area completely full. People got fairly creative with where they would park their cars and we opted to park a little ways down the street and add a half mile to our journey to ensure we wouldn’t get blocked in. 

Finally, finally, we were ready to hit the trail. We somehow managed to arrive at the trailhead a full 2 hours before we expected, so we were excited to take our time and enjoy the beach for longer. Turning onto the wooded, 1.5 mile trail down to the beach was lovely. Abundant spring growth meant that everything was bright green, and the well-established gravel trail made getting to the beach easy and fast.  

Wooded trail on pacific coast

We stumbled out onto the pile of driftwood separating the beach from the trail, scrambled over the fallen giants and took a deep breath of salty air. After waiting for a full year to visit the coast, I was thrilled to be at the beach. My excitement increased by about ten-fold when we saw a blow in the distance. Whales! 

It appeared that there were probably two individuals, and they seemed to be pretty active, waving pectoral fins in the air. Either humpback whales or gray whales, they stuck around for a bit in the shallows before moving along. To say I was excited would be an understatement. I started jumping up and down, which is no easy feat in the sand while wearing a fully-loaded backpack. 

Excited woman looking at whale blow in the distance at Third Beach in the Olympic National Park
Woman at Third Beach in the Olympic National Park

Eventually, the whales stopped showing off and we decided to continue on the route. We dodged the waves pushing high onto the beach until we were in sight of the third beach waterfall and in front of the first headland crossing. It seemed the perfect time for lunch and reapplication of sunscreen. 

After finishing our lunch, we packed up and prepared to leave the beach and re-enter the woods. If you are not familiar with Olympic National Park coastal routes, the coast has rugged cliffs lining the shore, making many of the headlands impossible even during a low tide. To continue on the trail, hikers need to climb the headland, usually with the aid of a rope or ladder to an overland trail until the headland has been passed. Then the route spits you back on the beach, where you hike until the beach reaches another impassible headland, denoted by a red and black marker. Repeat ad nasuem until you find a place to sleep. 

Luckily the first headland entry was short and not terribly steep. After ascending the ropes there was a large ladder in varying states of disrepair, but also an easy climb. A few more steep climbs and the route leveled out to a lovely stroll through the woods; the crashing waves muffled by the branches. 

person standing next to headland pass
backpackers climbing up ladder on the pacific coast
temperate rainforest near coast in the Olympic National Park
eroded trees in the Olympic National Park

We dropped onto a pebbly beach with the next headland crossing only a couple hundred yards away. It was the first beach with sea stacks right off the shore, and the rugged, rocky coastline a beautiful change from the open, sandy beaches of Third Beach. We made our way up and over the second headland crossing, significantly steeper than the others. Meg and I loved it, as we chose this route for the opportunity to climb headlands. Others seemed less excited, but went up and over nonetheless!

After a little more beach walking, we reached the third and final headland crossing. A quick climb into the woods and then we were deposited onto a sandy beach rimmed by ghost-white dead trees. The sand eroded under the large trees, creating an eerie scene

Sea stack on the olympic coast
person climbing on rope in the Olympic National Park
Backpackers hiking on beach in the Olympic National Park

With all of the headland crossings out of the way, we were ready to finish our hike to Toleak Point to sleep for the night. Cobble, boulders and sand lined the beach and we scuttled across the various terrain. At last we rounded the final bay and could see Toleak Point.

Overnight

We found a campsite soon after arriving. As soon as we claimed the spot, Meg and Kyle were ready to jump in the water and get a swim in before it was too cold to frolic in the waves. I slowly unpacked, confident that I was too cold to swim and would remain on shore. I wandered down to the shore to take a few pictures and before I knew it I was down to my underpants and in the water. Just to wade, of course, until a giant wave engulfed me entirely and I gave in. There is nothing quite as wonderful as playing in coastal waves on a sunny day. I gave up and crawled out soon after, as there was a lot of debris in the water and my imagination was being overly creative, but Meg continued swimming long after the rest of us finished. 

Two people swimming in the Pacific Ocean at the Olympic National Park
Two people swimming in the Pacific Ocean at the Olympic National Park
Women swimming in the pacific ocean at the Olympic National Park
Woman swimming in the pacific ocean at the Olympic National Park

All day we had continued to make up time and arrive earlier than expected. First we caught an earlier ferry than we planned, the WIC stop went pretty quick and we made good time while hiking. So with a 6pm low tide, we expected to arrive at our campsite around 7, make some quick dinner, a campfire and then sleep. Instead, we arrived around 3 and had hours to play and explore. And explore we did. While Meg and Kyle took a post-swim nap, Michael and I ventured to the water source to fill up for the night and do some tidepooling. The tide was perfect for exposing rocky habitats and we saw many anemones, crabs and tidepool sculpin. I could have spent until sunset looking in the every crevice, but was also pretty desperate for a campfire, so we made our way back to the campsite.  

Tidepools at Toleak Point in the Olympic National Park
Tidepools at Toleak Point in the Olympic National Park
Tidepools at Toleak Point in the Olympic National Park
Tidepools at Toleak Point in the Olympic National Park

But first,